Beans vs. Leaves: Shantou's Caffeinated Cultural Revolution

Shantou, a coastal city that has long been neglected, was once the heartland of China's Gongfu tea culture. In recent years, however, the aroma of freshly roasted coffee beans has begun to waft through the city's narrow alleys. From Tokyo-style inspired cafes serving artisanal brews to sleek boutique accommodations, this laid-back city is shedding its past as a forgotten relic and embracing a lifestyle that represents wellness, productivity, and a break from the past.

Nestled along the eastern coast of Guangdong Province, Shantou is known as the birthplace of Asia's richest man, Li Ka-shing. It was a jewel of the Pearl River Delta during China's economic reforms in the 1990s. As one of China's original Special Economic Zones at the time, local corruption permeated the governance system, stifling development and innovation. Investment dwindled, and infrastructure crumbled. Neighbors like Shenzhen and Guangzhou overshadowed its potential.

Just a few years ago, Shantou's railway station was one of the most underdeveloped transportation hubs in the region, notorious for its lack of air conditioning and poorly maintained restrooms that often deterred tourists from visiting. After decades of stagnation and in the wake of COVID-19, the city has seized the opportunity to reinvent itself, blending its rich history with a newfound energy that's attracting entrepreneurs, artists, and IT investors alike.

Today, Shantou is gaining attention with the region's most modern railway station, which rivals Shenzhen's famed infrastructure. The once-dilapidated structure has been replaced by a grand building that greets travelers with polished marble and soaring ceilings. Perhaps most notably, the restroom facilities have undergone a complete overhaul.

As commuting opens new routes for international travelers and the bond between Hong Kong and China strengthens, thriving coffee chains like % Arabica and Starbucks in Shantou represent more than just changing tastes. They starkly contrast with the traditional Gongfu tea culture, which has long been a fundamental part of Shantou's (Teochew's) identity.

Tea ceremonies still hold a special place at home, but coffee fuels the new economy and the spirit of a city on the move. Whether it's the bold notes of a dark roast or a touch of subtle nuttiness or caramel sweetness, the rich aroma of freshly brewed coffee fills the air, luring sleepy residents into cozy cafes morning and night.

Trendy cafes, adorned with XiaoHongShu (Little Red Book)-worthy decor and serving handcrafted drips, have become the new social hubs for Shantou's youth. These spaces with a touch of urban sophistication offer more than just caffeine; they provide a canvas for self-expression, networking, and creative collaboration.

Teochew people's addiction to caffeine is no secret! Coffee shops extend their business hours, serving as neutral grounds for Gen Z and Millennials to study, socialize, or work, blurring the lines between leisure and productivity. Open late into the night, the gentle hum of espresso machines and soft background music in the cafes creates an ideal environment for concentration. Young Chinese view coffee culture as a symbol of cosmopolitanism.

Shantou is just a short three-hour train ride from Hong Kong. Whether you're a coffee aficionado or simply looking for a taste of Shantou's evolving culture, here are my top three must-visit coffee spots that you won't want to miss on your next trip.

Must-Visit Cafes:

1. LOOOOP

Shantou's newest artisanal café LOOOOP promotes a lifestyle that combines the perfect blend of craftsmanship, flavor, and ambiance. With its meticulously sourced beans from South America and Africa, its coffee is brewed in a signature drip style that's as much an art as it is a science.

Since its grand opening in 2024, LOOOOP has consistently sold over 50 cups daily and offers a premium experience that includes its most exclusive drip, priced at RMB 120. The owner, who is also a pastry chef, is renowned for crafting the region's best-selling cannelé.

The café's sleek, minimalist design and commitment to quality have quickly made it the must-visit spot in Xiaohongshu (Little Red Book).

2. North Bridge Coffee Shop (北橋咖啡)

This hidden gem creates a serene and yet stylish escape in the heart of the city. With outdoor seating of cozy camping chairs, North Bridge invites you to sit back and savor everything from its signature single-origin pour-overs to matcha lattes. The menu is available in Chinese, English, and Japanese.

3. Dao Xing Café (道興咖啡)

Located next to The Mixc, Shantou's largest shopping mall, Dao Xing Café is a photogenic coffee destination that lures curious passersby with its charming Chinese village exterior. Inside, it's a paradise for latte lovers, featuring an innovative menu with an impressive selection of 30 different types of lattes. Each latte is crafted with local ingredients, giving them a unique regional twist. Whether you prefer your coffee hot or cold, Dao Xing Café offers a playful bubble tea-inspired coffee experience.