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25周年紀念號登場！

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<p>作為時裝重鎮，巴黎時裝周一向江湖地位穩固。</p>
<p>資訊發達的今天，你當然可以上網同步看，但是天橋氛圍、周邊花絮卻未必人人感受到。今次時裝編輯Nicola就親身前往巴黎，除了近距離來看騷，亦從場景設置、參與者、細節逐一細看，感受第一手時裝資訊。</p>
<p>2017秋冬時裝潮流關鍵字我們暫且不提，但時裝周關鍵字就肯定是風雨不斷！雖說巴黎人文化是出門不帶遮，怕不夠型（？）然而暴雨下倒也狼狽，樂觀地看，時裝人在時裝周另一面也是有趣的畫面。<br />
<img src="https://prd-cdn.jessicahk.com/files/img_0373_0.jpg" title="2017秋冬巴黎時裝周手記（上）" class="paragraph-image" alt="2017秋冬巴黎時裝周手記（上）"/>提到今季時裝周，其實有不少改變。如基於部分品牌男女裝合併行騷，不少品牌提早又或延遲了行騷時間。其次，零售業早前不景造成品牌削減經費，行騷的場地比以往更小。再者如Givenchy 等設計總監一職面臨交替的品牌更取消騷期，加上內地媒體數量近年大幅增加，如是者此消彼長下，其實香港媒體能獲得invitation 的機會確是年比一季少。<br />
<img src="https://prd-cdn.jessicahk.com/files/img_1042.jpg" title="2017秋冬巴黎時裝周手記（上）" class="paragraph-image" alt="2017秋冬巴黎時裝周手記（上）"/></p>
[embedyt]https://youtu.be/ukXsXOfLxbA[/embedyt]
<p>說回時裝騷本身，其實2017秋冬潮流中女性主義可算重要的關鍵字。由Lanvin的詩意唯美到Dries Van Noten的經典重生，再到Rochas的復古合蓄，細緻勾勒出不同的女性曲線和獨特個性。<br />
<img src="https://prd-cdn.jessicahk.com/files/img_0569.jpg" title="2017秋冬巴黎時裝周手記（上）" class="paragraph-image" alt="2017秋冬巴黎時裝周手記（上）"/>如詩唯美<br />
Lanvin本季選址Hotel de Ville 舉行，在浮華的宮廷場景下，設計總監Bouchra Jarrar帶出來自天堂中鳥類的浪漫生境。由蜂鳥到鳳凰，不同的鳥演繹不同風格。Bouchra延續簡約同時女性化的美學，設計比上季來得更收放自如。調色版的粉色、黑白構成玫瑰花和抓皺細節，絲質透視材質配合修身輪廓，特出浪漫的法式情懷。</p>
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<style type="text/css">#foogallery-gallery-98 {display:none; }</style><style type="text/css">#foogallery-gallery-98 {display:none; }</style><img src="https://prd-cdn.jessicahk.com/files/img_0638.jpg" title="2017秋冬巴黎時裝周手記（上）" class="paragraph-image" alt="2017秋冬巴黎時裝周手記（上）"/>經典重生<br />
對於Dries Van Noten，不說不知原來本季是品牌第100季天橋騷了。設計總監Dries 選擇了回顧昔日作品並重新再造，整個系列用上大師歷年來最愛的印花圖案。如果細心你更可能會發現連騷上出現的model，都是Archive精選！由比利時當年的紅模Kristina de Coninck到Alek Wek 、Guinevere van Seenus、Carolyn Murphy、Esther de Jong等⋯⋯有別以往純粹青春少艾，她們不少的已為人母，有的則是藝術家、生意人、演員等。多元的女性正合Dries的主題，不同身份個性的女性超越年齡地位，穿上美服展現獨一無二的個性美。</p>
<p>（現場附送集結成書的pattern book，必定要收藏！）</p>
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<style type="text/css">#foogallery-gallery-98 {display:none; }</style><style type="text/css">#foogallery-gallery-98 {display:none; }</style><img src="https://prd-cdn.jessicahk.com/files/img_0645_2.jpg" title="2017秋冬巴黎時裝周手記（上）" class="paragraph-image" alt="2017秋冬巴黎時裝周手記（上）"/>復古合蓄<br />
如果你認為以上設計流於show piece ，平日難以駕馭，那麼由Alessandro Dell&#8217;acqua執掌的Rochas，可能就合你心意。Alessandro 把簡潔線條與粉色、黑白色調融合成圓潤的肩線，簡潔無多餘裝飾圖紋，turtle neck 配上蝴蝶結、修身綁繩相輝映。值得一提是背部設計的心思，整個系列優雅且甜而不膩，叫人百看不厭。</p>
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2017秋冬巴黎時裝周手記（上）

<p>懷舊復古風一發不可收拾，於是我們看到了不少來自70年代的手袋設計重新演繹，硬身的top handles配以四平八穩的袋身、猄皮流蘇點綴源源不絕，半圓及圓形的手袋以最簡約的方式登場；至於bucket bag和背包熱潮延續至今；更值得留意是「小巧精緻」的手袋是今季的大趨勢，如camera bag般細小的手袋及迷你背包更是必備款式，還有新登場推介的solely strap單帶手袋，今季必捧！</p>
<p>Text:Roanna Lee</p>
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10個不能抗拒的手袋款式

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Don't Ask！穿上吧！

<p>Fashion seems to no longer be confined to the boundaries of gender, and the topic of equality is one of the most talked about topics on the year. Pantone, the leading authority in colour, has announced Rose Quartz and Serenity as the colours of 2016. This is the first time that the in 16 years that Pantone has announced crowned two colours as it’s winners; this is a reaction to the equality movement in fashion, as explained Pantone Colour Institute’s executive director Leatrice Eiseman:</p>
<p>“We are experiencing gender blur as it relates to fashion… societal movements toward gender equality and fluidity, the consumers’ increased comfort with using colour as a form of expression, and an open exchange of digital information that has opened our eyes to different approaches to colour usage that challenge traditional colour associations.”<br />
<img src="https://prd-cdn.jessicahk.com/files/pantone-color-of-the-year-2016-codes.jpg" title="Pantone’s Colours of the Year 2016" class="paragraph-image" alt="Pantone’s Colours of the Year 2016"/>This calm pastel pink and blue has been making a debut on the runway as of late, with brands as J.W Anderson, Carolina Herrera, Miu Miu, Roksanda, Jil Sander and Vivienne Westwood have been incorporating them into their shows. When shopping for your 2016 wardrobe, forget the bold, shocking colours and opt for a softer palette of pink, dusty blue, beige, grey or lilac. </p>
<p>“Rose is also an embracing colour, reflecting wellness, which of course is a big issue with everybody. With the tranquility of the blue, you get a kind of soothing feeling of order, composure and peace. We thought that really was tantamount to putting these two colours together and presenting them.”</p>
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Pantone's Colours of the Year 2016

<p>即使每天畫眉，訓練有素，然而要勾畫對稱的眉形，確實不易，間中「撞手神」才可能做得到，如今有個新方法，能輕易塑造自然立體的眉形。</p>
<p>Text : Ming Sze<br />
Photo : Eddie Tam<br />
Makeup : Leo Tam @ Annie G. Chan<br />
Hair : Sammy<br />
Model : Katia M @ Style<br />
Wardrobe : Maje</p>
<p>粗直眉依舊是今季大熱，名化妝師Leo說只需使用一淺一深的眉筆，就能輕鬆打造得到。首先以淺色的眉筆勾畫眉的雛形，再以深色眉筆於眉毛之間畫「X」形，由眉頭畫至眉尾，能增強濃黑效果，同時塑造立體感，看起來更自然突出。另外，配合14度角的眼線，能令眼睛顯得更大更Sharp。大家可能有疑問如何量度14v度角，其實Shiseido Maquillage的Dramatic Mood Eyes就細心配備斜角的眼線掃，只需輕輕沾上眼影粉，將掃平放於眼前，就能準確量度14度角的位置，而眼線只需由眼中央開始畫至眼尾，否則效果會過於誇張。</p>
<p>彩妝Tips︰<br />
若同時希望擁有白裡透紅的蜜桃肌色，可利用Peach Change Base CC，白色乳霜狀於推開時幻化成淡粉紅，修飾瑕疵同時帶來紅潤面色，就連胭脂也可以免塗。</p>
<p>Step by Steps : <img src="https://prd-cdn.jessicahk.com/files/img_0301x1.jpg" title="彩妝教室！交叉畫眉新法" class="paragraph-image" alt="彩妝教室！交叉畫眉新法"/>Step 1︰於全面塗上Peach Change Base CC調色及修飾瑕疵。<img src="https://prd-cdn.jessicahk.com/files/img_0257x1.jpg" title="彩妝教室！交叉畫眉新法" class="paragraph-image" alt="彩妝教室！交叉畫眉新法"/>Step 2：再以BR700淺色眉筆勾畫眉形。<img src="https://prd-cdn.jessicahk.com/files/img_0268x1.jpg" title="彩妝教室！交叉畫眉新法" class="paragraph-image" alt="彩妝教室！交叉畫眉新法"/>Step 3：接著以BR600深色眉筆於眉毛之間畫「X」字，由眉頭畫至眉尾。<img src="https://prd-cdn.jessicahk.com/files/img_0281x1.jpg" title="彩妝教室！交叉畫眉新法" class="paragraph-image" alt="彩妝教室！交叉畫眉新法"/>Step 4：利用斜角眼線掃沾上眼影粉，將掃平放於眼前，量度出14度角的眼線作記號，再用另一端的眼線掃填補眼線位。<img src="https://prd-cdn.jessicahk.com/files/img_0295x1.jpg" title="彩妝教室！交叉畫眉新法" class="paragraph-image" alt="彩妝教室！交叉畫眉新法"/>Step 5︰最後於蘋果肌掃上Mood Veil，再塗上接近唇色的唇膏，整體妝效更自然。</p>
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彩妝教室！交叉畫眉新法

<p>除了近兩年時裝界熱玩Monotone，這股熱潮也漸漸滲入彩妝界，而且同樣帶來摩登時尚感。誰說單一色調就等於單調乏味？只要掌握當中竅門，加上一雙自然恰當的眉形，不但能千變萬化，更能提升輪廓，在這個秋天散發一種誘人的嫵媚。</p>
<p>Text : Ming Sze<br />
Photo : Sze Chuen<br />
Makeup : Candy Law on Mariana D<br />
Hair : Total @ Total Hair Studio on Mariana D<br />
Model : Mariana D @ Primo<br />
Wardrobe &#038; Accessories : Tom Ford</p>
<p>亞洲女性化妝都有一個共通點，就是求自然「穩陣」，只追求靚靚的女神妝，既沉悶又沒個性。一些大膽時尚的妝效，如這次介紹的monotone妝，相信大部份女性都會怕「出事」而拒絕嘗試。名化妝師Candy說其實monotone妝最適合亞洲人，「好多人都怕化完會眼腫，但只要做到層次分明，反而最容易凸顯輪廓，而且色調一致的妝容，看起來更有型。」Tom Ford的Eye Cheek Shadow一盒就可以做到漸變的monotone，而且色澤自然，想妝效更富層次及立體感，可多加一層啡色的眼影，單眼皮的女性可將色調集中塗於近眼線的位置；雙眼皮的女性則可將塗抹的範圍升高，同時掃向眼尾，會有拉長雙眼的效果。另外要注意只須配一條簡潔俐落的幼黑眼線，令雙眼圓大。</p>
<p>Step by Steps︰<img src="https://prd-cdn.jessicahk.com/files/img_3563x1.jpg" title="秋妝熱玩Monotone" class="paragraph-image" alt="秋妝熱玩Monotone"/>Step 1：用小號眼影掃沾上啡色眼影，掃於眼窩位置。<img src="https://prd-cdn.jessicahk.com/files/img_3572x1.jpg" title="秋妝熱玩Monotone" class="paragraph-image" alt="秋妝熱玩Monotone"/>Step 2：用大號眼影掃沾上蜜桃色調眼影，掃於眉骨位置，形成漸變的妝效。<img src="https://prd-cdn.jessicahk.com/files/img_3607x2.jpg" title="秋妝熱玩Monotone" class="paragraph-image" alt="秋妝熱玩Monotone"/>Step 3：於顴骨位向上掃上同色胭脂，與眼尾的色調融合。另外，利用Skin Illuminating Powder Duo於腮位打造陰影。<img src="https://prd-cdn.jessicahk.com/files/img_3616x1.jpg" title="秋妝熱玩Monotone" class="paragraph-image" alt="秋妝熱玩Monotone"/>Step 4：最後於雙唇塗上同色系的唇膏，然後薄薄塗一層唇彩，增添豐盈光澤感。</p>
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秋妝熱玩Monotone

<p>當你以為運動元素經已火熱到盡頭時，設計師們告訴大家，他們的靈感源源不絕，單品以意想不到的活力面貌示人。運動元素不一定等於實用的運動服，高跟鞋也在其中，是一種全新的潮流方向。</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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