A Sip of History: Meeting The King Of Barbaresco In His Italian Castle

Half a world away from Hong Kong, I stood within the modern, stone-walled grandeur of Angelo Gaja's castle in Barbaresco, Italy. The air was thick with the scent of aged oak and anticipation as I awaited a tasting of Gaja's latest vintage, a rare privilege that felt surreal. Suddenly, the legendary winemaker Angelo Gaja, in a casual t-shirt and jeans, strode into the room and greeted me. "Welcome! Tell me, how's Hong Kong now?" he asked. His voice, laced with curiosity, instantly bridged the distance between us.

As we settled into conversation, I couldn't help but marvel at the depth of Angelo's connection to Hong Kong, a bond that many of his followers might not know. It all began three decades ago, when the Grand Hyatt decided to open an Italian restaurant in the heart of the city. At the time, an Italy-based chef was tasked with leading the venture, and he found himself grappling with the challenge of naming and branding the restaurant. Italian restaurant names might seem straightforward, but in early 1990s Hong Kong, Italian cuisine was still a burgeoning trend, and the landscape was far from saturated.

The chef turned to Gaja for ideas. It was a decision that would not only shape the restaurant's identity but also forge a lasting connection between Gaja wine and Hong Kong.

"Grissini!" Angelo recalled. "I like grissini and isn't it authentic enough?" He raised his hands with emotion as he spoke.

Angelo continued, "Grissini, crunchy breadsticks also known as the "little stick of Turin, was one of Napoleon's favorite foods. It's originally from Piedmont, where it's served on every table as a delectable start to a meal."

As Angelo recounted the moment, his eyes sparkled with a mix of nostalgia and pride, a testament to the enduring legacy of his global influence.

Step into the chandelier-lit dining room of Grissini at the Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, and you'll find its meticulously curated wine list brims with Gaja selections, from a Carricante by the glass at HK$250 to the opulent "Costa Russi" 2016, commanding a princely HK$6300 per bottle.

"In HK, you have more chances to taste French than Italian wine," Angelo said. "In terms of production, we have a smaller quantity but better quality. Our lands are very sacred, especially in Piedmont, and unlike France, we don't export everything."

Since that serendipitous connection, Angelo and his eldest daughter Gaia, who now steers the family empire, have become frequent visitors to Hong Kong. Their mission was to weave the soulful elegance of their Piedmont and Tuscany wines into the city's thriving culinary scene.

In a city where French restaurants have long dominated Hong Kong's fine dining scene, Angelo Gaja dares to envision a different future back then. By aligning his prestigious labels with upscale Italian eateries like Grissini, he was inviting local wine aficionados, label-chasers, and curious diners alike into a world where each dish, from handmade pastas to slow-roasted porchetta. Authentic Italian cuisine becomes a harmonious partner to the bold, earthy notes of Piedmont's Nebbiolo or the refined grace of Tuscany's blends.

Italian wine is poised to challenge the dominance of Burgundy and Bordeaux among the noble reds. This ambition is further fueled by Piedmont's culinary prowess, with an impressive 57 Michelin-starred restaurants (including four 2-starred), anchoring its status as a global epicenter of gastronomy and viticulture.

As the recipient of the 2019 Winemaking Award from the Institute of Masters of Wine and The Drinks Business, Angelo commands reverence in the wine world. The Gaja family, at the forefront of this movement, spans four wineries across Italy, encompassing 245 hectares of meticulously tended vineyards in Piedmont, Bolgheri, and Montalcino. In 2017, the family expanded its vision even further, investing in the volcanic soils of Sicily's Mount Etna, a region renowned for its distinctive, mineral-driven wines. The Gaja winery is located in the heart of Barbaresco, just a short distance from the famous Torre di Barbaresco. For many years, the winery was a well-kept secret, but it opened its doors to visitors in 2014. Each year, Gaja produces around 300,000 bottles of wine, with 60% of that production intended for export.

In this lazy afternoon, the rolling Piedmont hills stretched beyond the arched windows, a patchwork of vineyards basking under a golden Italian sun. With the landscape as my backdrop and the wines beckoning, now was the time to move on to the tasting. So, without further ado, let's delve into my verdicts and tasting notes:

Gaja Barolo Sperss 2015

It typically takes nearly four years for Barolo to age in oak before it is released. The latest vintage, 2015 from La Morra, is bolder, more complex, and refined, showcasing the unique terroir characterized by clay and limestone. This vintage offers a distinctive expression of classic Barolo—smooth and nutty with a menthol aftertaste, despite its light color. It presents engaging tannins that indicate excellent aging potential and a youthful sheen.

Gaja Barbaresco 2016

This wine has a light ruby color and an enticing, fruit-forward character that is both refreshing and harmonious. It displays hints of spice along with flavors of ripe green and red fruit. While it is enjoyable to drink now, its tannin structure suggests that it will continue to evolve and improve with age.

Gaja Langhe Sori San Lorenzo 1999

Sori San Lorenzo is a fictional name; the real name is "Secondine." The first vintage was produced in 1967. The 1999 vintage presents smoky and peppery notes, enriched with a variety of spices and a gentle sweetness reminiscent of caramel. It also features subtle hints of pencil and tobacco, though these are not overwhelming. This wine boasts a rich and complex structure, and despite being 20 years old, it still has excellent aging potential.